Your nail polish glitter and the EU

We have decided to republish some of the articles from our Micamoma Newsletter click here to subscribe and keep up the all latest nail polish news!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glitter and the Old Days

 

In the past there was only one rule concerning glitter that you needed to know when formulating your Indie polish. Make sure it was MEK resistant i.e. solvent resistant. Why …? because you risked having an unpleasant surprise when your glitter colours bled, melted and curled and your white crelly creation took on a murky combination of red, green and yellow.

 

The recent 2013 EU updates have changed all that as most cosmetic nail polish companies are moving to using cosmetic grade glitter in their nail polish and you should too.

It is possible to find MEK resistant and cosmetic grade glitters. However the focus should be on ensuring that the glitter pigments conform to the EU Cosmetic Directives and are cosmetic grade.

Previously a glitter pigment used for nail polish could lie within category 4 for rinse off products (category 4 refers to a category of pigments that can be used in shampoo and conditioners) as nail polish was regulated slightly differently under the old Directives prior to 2013.

Glitter pigments that were previously allowed in Category 4 rinse off are no longer allowed to be used in nail polish because according to the EU Cosmetic Directives nail polish is not a product you can rinse off.

What next?

 

Nail polish has now been brought in line with other cosmetic products such as lipstick and make-up.

In response to these changes we have reviewed all of our glitter and removed a number of them from sale. We then went about the painstaking process of sourcing and testing new glitter and other ingredients which the EU says are okay for nail polish. Now we are proud to say that all of our glitter pigments are suitable for sale and retail in nail polish within the EU and we will be adding to our range on an ongoing basis.

 

Limited Edition Micamoma Signature Bottle

We are really fussy when it comes to buying nail polish bottles. Don’t get me wrong bottles have a function…. they hold nail polish and that’s about it. But it can get boring having the same old round bottles that you can get anywhere and with Indie polishers biting at your heels it is nice to be ahead of the game. On our quest for the “perfect” nail polish bottle we came across this one.
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We haven’t given it a name yet but it really caught our eye. Made from premium, crystal clear Italian glass, they are thick walled, tough and durable not to mention incredibly stylish. It’s designed in a perfect cube shape with an elegant pedestal that will make your nail polish creation look ornamental and chic. It’s a definite Deborah Lipmann dupe and sooooo aspirational it will add sophistication to any bespoke nail polish brand.

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Before you all break down the doors to get it we will be celebrating Christmas and will be in a good state to deal with your orders in the New Year. That is just the time when these nail polish bottles will be available for sale on http://www.micamoma.com.

Happy Christmas and have a great New Year

So you want to be an Indie Polish maker … A guide

Nail polish supplies

Make your own Indie Franken polish

The Micamoma guide for new Indie polishers!

Why should I make my own nail polish, there is so much choice out there already?

According to leading market researchers PMR the nail polish sector grew by more than 3% in 2012  http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Market-Trends/Polish-cosmetics-sector-boosts-overall-CE-market-growth). In fact the polish sector contributed to an overall growth of the Central European cosmetic segment by 2% in 2012. So this is clear evidence that the sales of nail polish are increasing!

Indie polish makers have become so influential that they are setting trends that major brands follow. Some are so successful that they are selling 1000s of bottles every month. http://columbianewsservice.com/2013/03/upstarts-elbow-giants-in-booming-nail-polish-business/

The advantage that Indie polish makers have is that they can readily create new lines and be very experimental. A major company has to plan its collections months in advance, create thousands of units and would be reluctant to take risks on very daring creations as they might not sell. In fact Indie polish makers have forced the major companies to be more daring with their lines.

This all goes to prove that the Indie polish maker who is also often the end user can create original nail polish that others will want to wear. As an end user of nail polish they will have an intimate knowledge of what they value most about nail polish and ensure that their products deliver JUST that.

It is also lots of fun and very creative!

Why are there so many rules and regulations surrounding nail polish?

Most nail polish is lacquer based. That means that it contains solvents which are very volatile and flammable. Lacquer based nail polish also contains an ingredient called nitrocellulose. Nitrocellulose is responsible for the lovely smooth film that coats your nail. Is is also flammable. That’s why it is important not to smoke around nail polish suspension base and keep it way out of the reach of children.

As nitrocellulose and some of the other solvents in nail polish are classed as flammable there are strict international guidelines as to how these materials are shipped locally and internationally, particularly if they are flown. This is not a problem if you are sending small amounts of nail polish within the UK. If you want to send it internationally there are specialized couriers that may do this, but you will need a special agreement with them and shipping is expensive.

Can I send my nail polish through the post? I heard that it is not allowed at all.

Yes you can!! As of July 2013 Royal Mail prohibited the postage of nail polish overseas. However you can still send nail polish within the UK. This is a great solution for UK Indie polishers as it is also quite cheap.

Royal Mail allows customers to send a maximum of 4 bottles of nail polish per package.

So if your bottles of polish are 10mls each you can send 4 bottles per package via Royal Mail. The same if each bottle contained 5mls or 15mls, you can still send 4 bottles of nail polish per package. So if you sell your polish at £5 a pop that is 4 for £20 at a delivery cost of £2.60.

You will need to attach a Dangerous Goods label to your package which clearly identifies its contents (you can download them or ask at your local Post Office). You will also need to set up an account with Royal Mail to pay for postage online. Royal mail are funny like that.

To help keep costs down it might be possible to send your nail polish through the post for the cost of a large letter instead of a small packet. If your final package is less than 25mm thickness and no bigger than the size of a letter (please check Royal Mail for exact details) it can be sent as a large letter. Most 10ml plus nail polish bottles are greater than 25mm in thickness except for some. 5ml nail polish bottles tend to be thinner anyway. If you are looking for a 10ml bottle that is only 21mm thick look no further than the Micamoma Flat Square bottle. If packaged creatively you might get away with the large letter option and be able to offer cheaper P&P to your customers.

Can I use any glitter or pigment in my nail polish?

Nail polish is considered a cosmetic product. In the UK cosmetic products are governed by EU Law. That means that there are strict guidelines concerning the type of ingredients and colours/pigments that are used in cosmetics. If you are making nail polish just for personal use then it is not really an issue. Any cosmetic that is intended for use by others must only contain ingredients that are approved for use in the EU. Irrespective of whether it is for sale or a gift.

There are lots of pretty glitters and pigments available online particularly from the US that might be approved for use in other countries but not the EU. Glitter is not currently regulated by the FDA (Food Drug Administration) an American Regulatory body. So Indie polishers in the US can use almost any glitter that they like. In the EU however the colours that your glitters are coated with have to be allowed within the EU Cosmetics Directives. If they are not you cannot use them in your nail polish. It is important that you check the INCI numbers of the glitters and you ask suppliers to provide them along with MSDS before purchasing any supplies.

Why can’t I make my Indie nail polish with a normal clear coat I got down the shops?

Clear coat polishes tend to be quite thin and fluid. They are designed to provide a protective finishing layer over you manicure so they must create a nice even, smooth finish. Because they are so thin when you add micas, glitter and pigments they often eventually sink to the bottom of the bottle. In order to make glitter polishes or use micas and pigments, you will need to use Suspension base. It is made with special ingredients that help to keep your glitters, micas and pigments evenly distributed in your nail polish and prevent them from sinking to the bottom. This is vital if you want to make a professional product that performs as intended and not infuriate your customers.

I want to add colour to my nail polish. How can I do this?

There are a number of ways to colour your nail polish

Mica – Mica is a mineral that is ground into a fine powder and is coated with oxides, ultramarines, lakes and dyes. They provide a beautiful shimmery/metallic effect in your nail polish. Micas produce outstanding results when combined with holographic pigments to create the much loved “holo” polishes. Micas are an ideal way of colouring your nail polish as they readily mix with suspension base without clumping and streaking. And they hardly ever stain your nails.

Iron Oxides and Ultramarines – Iron oxides are compounds of iron used as colouring agents.

Ultramarine is a blue pigment composed of sodium, aluminum, silicate and sulfate. It was prized by ancient Egyptians.

Even though both of these types of pigments occur naturally they are produced synthetically for cosmetic use. This ensures that they are virtually free of any toxic heavy metals and are safe to use.

Iron oxides and ultramarines and are advantageous as they create virtually no staining on the nails.

Dyes are colours additives that will dissolve in the medium they are intended for. So you can get dyes that are water, oil and solvent soluble. They tend to stain heavily.

Lakes are a blend of dyes and other pigments and can stain but less so than dyes. They are incredibly vibrant and bright.

As iron oxides, ultramarines, lakes and dyes readily occur in powder form it is quite difficult to add them to nail polish suspension base without resulting clumping and streaking. The powder particles do not readily mix with the suspension base (which can be very thick and solvent based) and stick together. It is practically impossible to properly mix these powders into your suspension base and get them to evenly distribute without any clumping.

The best way to achieve coloured nail polish that you see on the high street is to use ready made coloured polish or concentrated liquid pigments.

So where do I go from here?

First of all take baby steps……

  • Buy a small amount of suspension base and glitters and pigments and play around until you feel comfortable working with them. Many Indie polish makers have their own techniques and preferences and you will be no different.
  • When you feel confident test out your new creations and get honest feedback.
  • Perfect your recipes and make sure that all of the ingredients are EU compliant/allowed before you begin to produce on a larger scale.
  • Keep detailed notes. There is nothing more frustrating than making a gorgeous nail polish and then not remembering how you did it.

When I am ready how do I sell my yummy nail polish?

To reduce costs and test the market most new indie sellers sell on craft focused web portals such as Etsy and Folksy.  This can be really useful as you can set up an online shop really quickly and get immediate feedback.

  • Be sure to make full use of the tag options and use meaningful descriptions and product names so that it is easy for customers to find you. Take full advantage of this. You can also conduct a search for products that match yours. Click on the top listings and at the bottom of the listing it will show what tags that seller has used. This might provide useful info to help you to get to the top of the searches as well.
  • Include a shop policy. Include a concise and easy to understand list of  Terms & Conditions. This will reassure prospective customers and encourage them to buy.
  • Pictures speak a thousand words. The quality of your photos is crucial! Nail polish is all about the visuals. People especially want to see how it will look on their nails. Make sure that your photos are of a high quality, crisp, clean and show off your gorgeous polish as well as they possibly can. Take time to find out how to take great photos.
  • The more products you list the better. It gives the impression that you are a serious enterprise because you have invested in your shop. It also gives the potential customer more choice so they are more likely to find something that suits them. More listings will give your shop more of a chance of being found on search results. You can also test different tags, titles and key words with different items to give you an even better chance of being found for different searches.

After you have made your millions you can transfer to a more dedicated website such as Big Cartel which caters for crafters who make their own products to sell. Last time we checked they had a free option which is useful for those on a budget.

Nail Polish Shipping … a pain in the A*** or not?

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I’ve been sending suspension base to my customers for quite a while now. I am a goody two shoes. I fill out all the documentation as I should. Declare all the items in the package. Send off the IATA  dangerous good notes to be checked. Then cross my fingers, legs  and any other body parts and hope that the package gets to its destination.  My overseas shipping costs are reasonable I think. But I still feel for the customer when they request a shipping quote. I can see the thinly disguised look of shock on their face …WHAT ..HOW MUCH??? They may be saying this in German, Spanish or French but it’s the same reaction. Don’t get me wrong I understand the temptation to throw your stuff in a box, stick on an overseas address and hope for the best. Some of the rules just don’t make any sense to me.  With Royal Mail you can send nail polish suspension base to Northern Ireland but not the Irish Republic. I know some would say it’s a different country but they’re both overseas aren’t they and in about the same place?

Warning-Flammable-Liquid

I do appreciate the dangers of sending a substance through the domestic post that is flammable or hazardous. I have received parcels just like that from sellers on Ebay that apparently could not give a toss about the regulations. They do what they have to do it seems. I know there are suppliers out there who offer cheaper International Dangerous Goods shipping but I suspect they are not as anal as myself when it comes to the paperwork. For small indie polish makers the regulations can be labyrinthine and  there is a lot of misunderstanding out there. Royal Mail allow nail polish through domestic mail as long  as the capacity of each individual bottle does not exceed 30ml ( you are only allowed 4 bottles in total) that’s about 120 ml of nail polish. In reality the average indie polish maker is never going to send that much in a bottle and I would argue that the dangers are minuscule. On the other hand if a supplier sends out litres at a time the dangers do add up. It only seems right that your hapless postal worker has an idea of what they are handling for their safety and well being and on a more selfish note your  Dangerous goods Parcels don’t get delayed by overseas customs officials or worse….. DESTROYED.

Solvent resistant Glitter and MEK testing.. Why is it important?

It seems that not all nail polish glitters are created equal. When we first started out sourcing glitter and glitter shapes we would get excited when we came across a cute fuchsia dot or square. We would be gung ho and put it in our indie polish only to find that after a day or a week our beautiful white jelly polish had changed to a washed out shade of pink. Not good for the reputation and more importantly not for customers polishes.

Now older and wiser we religiously MEK test all/any glitter we intend to use. Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) is an industrial strength solvent usually stronger than any nail polish suspension base. That’s why it is ideal for evaluating the long term solvent resistant qualities of any glitter you might be thinking of using.

The accepted wisdom is that if your coloured glitter can sit submerged in MEK for around 5 minutes  and not bleed any colour into the MEK then it has passed the test and we can trust it in our Indie polish. We also need to be concerned about our larger glitters curling but that’s another test. For the test we did the above… below you can see the results.

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To be fair we should have left the glitters in the MEK for the requisite  5min. But after that time, samples A ,B and C had shown no signs of discolouration. We were confused..WHY? because we had rejected  A  and  C due to them NOT passing the test a month ago. Leaving the glitters submerged for an extra 5 minutes showed that we were right in not selecting them for sale. Slowly the MEK began to turn pink and purple respectively.  It was a shame as we really liked those glitters and wanted to stock them. The emerald green glitter was the only one that passed with the surrounding MEK remaining clear as crystal. Even with one of us shaking the hell out of it.

Officially according to the 5 minute rule, all the glitters except Sample D would have passed and been deemed solvent resistant. Though we wonder about the long term reaction between the glitter and the solvent based nail suspending base if those glitters were used in an indie polish. Perhaps someone could purchase an Indie nail polish and not use it for 3 months giving the glitters enough time to bleed. But maybe that’s us being a little too anal..

Indie Polish with Holographic glitter Tutorial

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I noticed that there is not much information on how to get started making your own nail polish. On the surface it may seem simple, just throw some mica powder and glitter into a nail polish bottle, add your suspension base and you are away.  However great polishes can be created when care is taken in selecting pigments and glitters which compliment each other.

Indies polish has taken off in the United States so much so that commercial nail polish manufacturers are playing catch up with independent small scale polish makers. Indie polishers take the time, care and attention to detail to create bespoke nail polishes that their customers crave and cannot buy on the high street. At this time, UK indie nail polish brands are in their infancy but in the last year there has been an explosion of independent entrepreneurs who mainly work from home and have made their mark on the UK indie polish universe. Many of these have their origins in the frankenpolish and nail art world, at a  time when nail polish suspension base was generally difficult to get hold of.  Aspiring UK polish makers had to make do by mixing glitters and mica powders with shop bought regular clear polish which did not suspend the pigments or glitter but it was better than nothing.

Those days have thankfully gone. Now we are able to create eye-catching and unique nail polishes.

Hopefully this will be one of many nail polish tutorials and recipes that can get you on the way to nail polish nirvana!!

OK Here is what you will need…..

Suspension base
Jade Green Mica
Sapphire holographic glitter 015
Sapphire holographic glitter 040
Penny Copper glitter 008
Laser Blue glitter 008
1 x 10ml empty nail polish bottle
1 x Mega stainless steel ball
1 x 0.05ml measuring spoon
1 solvent resistant funnel
Nail polish thinner mix  (optional)

Feel free to change the glitters and mica powders to any of your choosing. But stick to the measurements outlined.. at least until you are comfortable with making your own polish.

It can get messy so it’s a good idea to do this on plastic, a silicone sheet or paper which you will throw away later or clean. Also working with nail polish suspension base is pretty straight forward but it can get a bit smelly  … so open a window or wear a mask.

1. Fill the nail polish bottle with about 9-10mls of suspension base.

Blue Holographic Indie polish

2. Using the 0.05ml measuring spoon and funnel add…..
5 scoops of  Jade Green mica
1 scoop of Penny Copper glitter
1 scoop of Sapphire holographic glitter
3  scoops of Sapphire holographic glitter
1 scoop of Laser Blue glitter.
Pop in the steel ball and add some thinner if required. It’s a good idea to mix a little suspension base and nail polish thinner beforehand to make sure that your nail polish has the right/desired consistency. If the polish is too thin the glitters will not disperse and suspend correctly. If it is too thick the Indie nail polish will not spread evenly on the nail and it might be tricky to get enough glitter particles on and off the brush.

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Put the lid on your nail polish bottle and shake until all the mica, glitter and suspension base have  mixed. Test  your new polish on your nails. If is it is a little thick then add a drop of thinner. If the consistency is a bit thin add some suspension base.

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This is the polish straight out of the bottle. If you wanted it would be a good idea to add more topcoat layers to get a really glassy professional finish. Using mica powder as your colourants gives a metallic  shimmery look to your polish. Some people prefer a more matte finish. This can be achieved by substituting mica powder for normal oxide pigments or you can use pre-coloured nail polish.

It’s best to experiment to get the look you want!!